The following entry is about a lifetime adventure. It was June 2023. You will read a text that I wrote the day after reaching the top of the legendary Mont Blanc. 

It's probably the most famous and studied mountain in the world.

The heart of the Alps and an iconic summit among alpinists.

I hope I am able to bring your thoughts with me, both the day before and during the activity.

Enjoy it.

Friday 06:30

It was a nasty night but I wasn't feeling tired or sleepy. Somehow my body was anticipating the big challenge ahead. I don't know much about nutrition/training (specially for altitude), but I decided to follow the basics and prioritize the carbs intake and water. "Fucking hell, I'm going too often to the toilet". During the next hours in the lab, I included some salty pills I've been using for long runs in the mountains, specially when heat had been present. "I'm lucky to have some here, I hope it works". I know carbs require and help to keep water in the body so I continued to periodically get a piece of bread/banana etc during the next office hours.

Friday 17:30

I arrived home after a confusing day in the lab. In such occasions, I find it difficult to concentrate, but at the same time, focusing on a task helps to evade the worries, concerns and thoughts. "At least I was able to write something in my manuscript". I told 'see you tomorrow' to Lili and quickly commuted home by bike. "Not the best legs", I think to myself. I packed the bag and waited for Dani, he'd pick me up at my place. I ate a big boul of rice with some tomato sauce. As much as I could. And water, again with salts. It was warm so I took a cold shower before the drive. Legs up during the drive (thanks Dani for driving) and I managed to shortly close the eyes and rest a bit. "We are off. Towards Bianco. It's happenning." A pleasant 2h drive and we arrived around 9pm to the parking. Steep road up. There's even a toilet in the parking. We see several cars, there are more people dreaming with Bianco. We quickly ate some food, talked a bit, decided the departure time and got into our sleeping bags. "I feel heavy, the digestion is heavy, my legs feel heavy, I feel uncomfortable and I want to go to the toilet every 5 minutes." Alarm was set at 00:00. I think I managed to sleep just for a few minutes, but every minute felt surprisingly great.

Saturday 00:40 - 00h00min of activity

We start walking towards Nid d'Aigle (refuge at 2372 m). I take the lead for the first 1100 m of uphill. No stops, just to verify the track. It's dark and silent, no wind. We keep talking, the temperature is cozy (Dani is in t-shirt, thermic layer for me, no gloves). My body doesn't feel extraordinarily great but so far I am not nervous. As if the objective would be so far that one is not even aware of it. First snow around 2000 m.

02:30 - 01h50min

Time to wear boots. I wore trailrunnig shoes for the first part. We are gaining altitude and the night is getting deeper so temperatures drop quickly. We have more and more snow. Two consecutive stops to fuel a bit, wear some additional layers and the crampons. We continue. Dani takes the lead. The terrain goes up fast. The pace is not demanding but we gain altitude quickly. We both feel comfortable and we are moving smoothly. I am grateful he was leading on this part, I was just following his steps in pilot mode. "Crampons are comfortable, it feels safe". We progress.

04:00 - 03h20min

Refuge Tête Rousse (3167 m). We feed ourselves. I feel great. The heavy feelings at the beginning are gone after burning some carbs. I'm gaining confidence. I keep eating and drinking regularly. We progress fast until the Grand Couloir (3340 m, famous for rockfalls), snow conditions are good! No sign of danger in the couloir. We climb up towards the Gouter Refuge. It's steep, it gets more technical and I slow down a bit. I want to make sure of every step, no mistakes. We see headlamps. Some guides with their clients are descending from the refuge. Suddenly there are (not exaggerating) more than 30 people in the route. Time to wait to avoid any issues. People are nervous, I feel that even the guides are nervous. I'm a bit puzzled, it had been so calm that the sudden crowd confused me. I attach myself to a cable to rest and eat an energy bar. There's some wind so I wear the external layer and the big gloves. We then decide to attach ourselves with the rope. Too many people.

05:45 - 05h05min

We arrive to Refuge du Goûter (3815 m). Headlamps off. We are welcome by white surroundings and a magnificent sunrise from Aiguille du Midi. Happiness. Dani is excited, I try to stay calm. We take the first pictures. I feel a bit cold due to the low motion the hour before and decide to wear the down jacket. Good decision, better. Eat, drink, take a picture and we continue. I take the lead again. The route is easy now, I feel light, I'm surprised. The poles are really helpful.

06:30 - 05h50min

I am gaining confidence with every step. Suddenly, I feel that the rope gets tighter. Dani is slowing down (4100 m). He doesn't say anything at the beginning but a few more meters and the lower pace is evident. He drinks. "This guy is tough." We stop, look back and see a monster climbing with huge strides. We are surprised, "who is this guy?". He catches us, "Tu vas vite!", I say. "No French, English!", he replies. "Petter!". Of course, only a pro athlete can climb at such pace. Insane, he continues towards Vallot Refuge, apparently he was supposed to take photos of Hillary Gerardy, attempting the Mont Blanc record from Chamonix. "I'm late!", he says while flying up.

07:40 - 07h00min

The little flat part before Refuge Vallot (4362 m) gives some air to Dani. We see many people, skiers also. We eat. We slowed down quite a bit in the last section but I have no doubts about reaching the summit. Full trust. We cheer Hillary, already coming down from the summit. She says there's some wind on the top. We climb up the Bosses ridge, perfect conditions. I'm surprised again, this feels easy. A slight headache comes, but nothing that makes me doubt. "Damn, I feel great! How's this possible? I was born at the sealevel". People are descending from the summit. We continue the epic ridge to the summit. I feel invincible, unstoppable.

09:00 - 08h20min

A few pictures and we head off towards Maudit. The snow conditions in the downhill are ideal. There's even the possibility to move quickly/run. I feel comfortable with the crampons but my hands are cold. There's wind. Some steep terrain in the downhill, I focus on the crampon technique. I don't move fast but I feel confident. Dani is feeling better. He gently gives me some advice and I immediately feel the difference. Thanks, Dani. We go on. The lateral traverse towards Maudit is still in the shadow, optimal conditions.

10:10 - 09h30min

We arrive to the Maudit col (4310 m) and the tricky descent is in front of us. People are backclimbing. "I take the rope", I say. We wait for a couple in front of us and Dani builds a rappel. I feel nervous, "I'm attached but damn, this is steep!" The snow is stable, there is trace but my heartrate gets accellerated. There are people also going up, busy path again. After two long rappels and I feel safe again. It took quite long. Dani's skills in the downhill impress me. Woah. Immediately, I realize I am sweating like hell and sun is hitting strong. Together with the long exposure time in altitude, water starts to lack. "I'll have to manage the remaining quantity", Dani is also lacking water and his headache is considerable, he says.

12:15 - 11h35min

We walk down towards Tacul, little ramp up to the col (4100 m) during which we feel relaxed and it goes quickly. For some time the mood is great. We eat the last grams of carbs and drink the remaining water. We shortly cheer some experienced mountaineers as we overtake them. I ask them the estimated arrival time and they tell us that we will make it in 1h to Aiguille du Midi! Again, mood is great. Facing the downhill Dani says that his legs are not even tired, only headache. This guy is a monster. I don't feel exhausted either but my worries about the lack of water start to grow.

13:00 - 12h20min

We catch more people that are going towards the cablecar. Last little downhill to reach the plateau (full of camping tents!). Almost there. But I'm thirsty. We hug ourselves in the plateau (3520m). Dani feels greatful, I feel greatful. He thanks me, I thank him. We discuss shortly and head towards Aiguille du Midi. Sun is hitting really hard, perpendicularly to the plateau. It feels hot. We walk slowly, I'm sweating too much, my lips are dry, my throat is dry. Dani overtakes me while I remove some layers. "What was I waiting for? Why didn't I remove some clothes earlier?" I'm soaking wet and dehydratated. I get angry with myself. "How can this happen to me?"

13:20 - 12h40min

I continue walking slowly without stopping. I know at some point I'll arrive but I'm in reserve mode. I hesistate to ask for water to people. I don't. I take snow and put it all around my face to reduce the body temperature and stop to sweat given the low amount of water I have in my body. It's also a while since I last had some food and the hypo is arriving. "6 hours above 4000 m is tough", I tell myself. I manage to climb the last 250 m of elevation up to Aiguille du Midi. People are in worse state than me. I feel sorry for them but I don't stop, I need water. Dani arrived before me and I ask him to go and get some water (sorry Dani, maybe the manners were not the best). We go to the canteen, I feel some nauseas (my face is white like hell) and a little hitstroke, so I go to the toilet. I refresh myself in the toilet. It feels better. Dani gets me some food and water and I immediately feel like a newborn. Thanks Dani. We celebrate it. We measure the oxygen saturation at 3875 m, %85. Woah! I'm surprised.

Adventure is over. What a day!

24 km +4200 m - 13h of activity

MONT BLANC (4810 m) DIRECT - Traversée 3 Monts

The link to the activity is here.